Nothing major, just annoying really, my oil gauge from new makes a noise like a electical buzz when the ignition is on, you cant here it when the engine is running but now you can.
It still works fine and if i change it i am not sure if i would find a dial to match out of a 2010 car.Caterham have changed the look of them.
So question is, do you think its just mechanical components inside the dial or indeed a short and are there places that fix these or just cheaper to buy a new one that matches.
Thankyou, Frank.

Sounds like a faulty component to me - part of the electric 'driver' for the dial.
You should be able to take off the 'face' and swap with a new gauge to keep it looking the same.
I've done that with gauges in the past...

Thankyou steve,maybe carl does them if the conector is the same at the back.

Mine has always done that. (07 roadsport)

Think yourself lucky it's at least working...
I seem to have somehow killed both the oe Caterham oil pressure guage AND a brand new VDO whiteface one which I put in after the original died.

These mysterious fatalities occurred while we were playing with the Emerald, trying to get the car to run. It's possible that at some point the polarity was reversed to the senders.

I'm so sick of electric guages I'm going to fit a mechanical one.

Hal

Done! Smiths Telemetrix mechanical oil temp and pressure....white face with red needles so easier to see than the black dials but made by Caerbont same as the Caterham branded ones.

As the car has a wide stripe, having the contrasting dials within the width of the band continues the theme across the dash.

Looking good!

Eugene
Merci M. Eugene!

It's very frustrating, the car now starts and everything seems to work ok, lights horn, brakes, instruments, for the first time since late summer 2006....so I'd like to get it out of the barn and road test it.

Unfortunately I can't as with brilliant timing/planning, I have a Davrian in the process of full suspension set-up blocking the exit!

It started off as a simple brake re-furb but I then realised the front shock towers had been attached at different height...13mm different.

The rears were out by 5mm.

Also, the rear towers had entirely the wrong angle on the top plate, which was destroying the rubbers on the shock, and would have been introducing bending forces to the shaft.

All rectified now, and I should have the car back on the ground tomorrow!

Part of the job was removing the right rear wheel, which had a broken weld holding a stud to the hub.

After wasting an hour with various ideas which didn't work I removed the entire corner....