Unfortunately 2014 hasn't been my year of the Seven. Still not running, but we are finally going to try to get the engine started coming weekend.
As to run in a completely new Ford Duratec 2.0 I have been advised to use a mineral based engine oil first.
Personally I was thinking something like 10W40, but Shell only has 15W40 now.
Can I safely put that in and for how many miles before I change it to 10W60?

Hope someone can help me out as it's about time to have something a bit more powerful than my Defender again...

.I use 15w40 Castro GTX diesel for the first 1000klm then switch to a 5w50 synthetic oil on my Duratec
Chris

Thanks Chris, I'll get some 15w40 tomorrow.

For what it's worth, here are my thoughts . . .

I'd use Miller CRO 10w-40 for the first 20 minutes. It's designed for the job and will seat the rings better during the critical first few minutes. Maybe a mineral oil after that, and then 5w-something synthetic. I would only use 10w and 15w with care (ie track use where temperatures are high) as main bearing tolerance is extremely tight on the Duratec and the thicker oils could translate to reduced flow and shorter life on a cold engine.

If its a crate Ford engine using standard Ford pistons, rings and bore finish you will be perfectly OK using the correct Ford spec oil for the engine from day one. That is how every Ford supplied in the world has its sump filled at the factory. Just don't granny it too much, better to drive it enthusiastically rather than glaze the bores.

If its got special pistons, and rings you really need to follow the advice of the builder. They will probably recommend a suitable oil or even supply one if you ask nicely.

When I got my bog standard crate Zetec after draining out the green slime Ford put in whilst it was being stored I filled the sump with the cheapest 5w/30 semi synthetic oil our factors had in. Drove it perfectly normally avoiding full throttle and never allowed it to bog and changed it after 100 miles for more of the same. For the next 500 miles drove it the same again but gave it more right foot. At 600 miles I filled with 5w/30 fully synthetic and drove that car as I drive it now and 12,000 miles later it uses no oil whatsoever.

When I had the steel x-flows fresh after a rebuild I would run them on mineral for the first 200 miles at least before I went onto my normal oil.

Not using a running in oil is a missed opportunity. You could stick any oil in it and it'll be fine, but if you want the best out of it, a little bit of effort pays dividends.

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=187&sector=M otorsport

Low maintenance and long service intervals are what sells cars, not regular oil changes. That doesn't mean what is commercially desirable for Ford is good for the engine - it just needs to survive the process.

The devil is in the detail and it's only when you start to get into serious engine tuning that it all starts to make sense.

Bit like drinking cheap booze

I will drink to that

Thanks guys. Couldn't find ANY mineral oil in whatever shop we had nearby. I'll have a look at Miller CRO and to see if I can get hold of it. After so many years of waiting, an extra week wouldn't upset me too much anyways.
Simply had too much bad luck with my k-series has made me a completely paranoia about it and the endless info on the internet isn't exactly helping me in a relaxing way. :p