Finally got my fully rebuilt head back on the K1800 Evo 220, oil and water in, but when I try and start it I have no ecu light on the Emerald.

The engine turns over healthily on the starter but with no pump or ignition it just won't start. There is no flashing led for the immobiliser either....

I discovered the plug into the immobiliser unit to the right of the steering wheel was actually pulled out. With it back in, the red flashing led flashes.

Of course the battery in the sender was dead, but after replacing it I found that I can make the immobiliser do various things....it can come on as a continuous red light, it can flash intermittently, or it can be permanently out....trouble is, I don't recall how to set the thing, or how you are supposed to disarm it.

Can someone remind me or point to a link which has the operating instructions?

Sounds like one for Uncle Albert...

Sure he'll be along shortly

Is there any way to bypass the Lucas 5AS system immobiliser function?

I don't understand what's happened, as I thought the Emerald ecu had the immobiliser deselected. It simply has no power to it!

I was forced to use logic, eventually.

After Seloc reckoned the 5AS doesn't cut power to the ecu, just to the pump and starter solenoid, I worked out that for all its weird behaviour, it's not the culprit....as the starter works.

The fact that I had no pump or ignition, and no light on the Emerald, seemed to show no power to the Emerald, but on checking the feed to pin 28, ign switched 12v, I found there was power to the ecu, and on removing the ecu for a proper check, with a 12v feed to 28 and a battery earth to 29 the LED came on, so the ecu wasn't the problem..

So, logically, it had to be an earth problem. So it had to be the earth from the ecu.

Followed the loom back from the single K3 ecu plug, and found a wire that I'd not seen hanging down in the spaghetti with the end encased in masking tape and an earth fitting and bolt inside the tape!

I do now recall removing it, it was on one of the cam end cover bolts, but when I put the head back I couldn't see the thing so forgot to put it back.

Once properly connected the engine started after purging air from the injection, but a screeching alternator belt finished play for yesterday.

This morning I tightened the belt, the engine started instantly, and runs beautifully quietly compared to the rattling horror that it was before Rog Fabry rebuilt the head.

Now it's just the appalling racket from the idler gear on the box that's intrusive at tickover in neutral.....it's ok with the clutch dipped, but I'm wondering if this indicates low oil level?

The car has only done 27,000 miles but probably has either the original oil, or last changed in 2006.....what's the best way to change it?

Uncle Albert tells me there's no actual drain plug....it's the 5 speed box.

Good progress!
And no, there is no drain plug on a 5-speed box...
Are you sure the rattling isn't the thrust bearing?

Is it the old ford type 9 box? If so I removed the top plate on the box, suck out the oil, and top up. Bit messy but fairly easy to do.

Donut
What does gearbox oil taste like ?

Depends on the vintage....... smooth but the with odd bit of grit from the worn baulk rings

Donut
I thought it would have it bit more bite to it ( teeth )

I think it's the idler shaft.

I spoke to Uncle A about it, seems to be common enough on the 5 speed Sierra boxes, but what were Ford thinking when they made them without drain plugs?

I spoke with Chris of BGH Geartech, who do a drain plug conversion on this box, and he is supposed to be sending some pix to show me where to drill.

He said 99% of people who try to drill a drain hole do it in the middle of the bowl shaped protuberance....a VERY bad idea as it has a magnet inside, which is easily smashed, resulting in small bits of magnetic shrapnel all over the box internals, sticking to teeth, cogs. and bearings.